Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
